How to distinguish cultured pearls from natural ones?
Pearls are one of the most ancient precious stones. Its uniqueness lies in its organic origin. The stone is obtained under natural conditions from mollusk shells, and each type of pearl belongs to a specific type of mollusk. Due to its rare origin and high price, this stone is often imitated. There are several types of artificial pearls, and only those that are passed off as natural are considered fake, and, accordingly, their cost increases.
Types of natural pearls
- Freshwater and marine. These stones are entirely of natural origin. They are formed by chance; humans are not involved in this process. Pearls from the seabed are very rare, so their cost is high. Freshwater stone can be seen more often.
- Cultivated. This variety of organic pearls is grown by humans in pearl farms. It is also classified as a precious mineral, but it is cheaper in cost. More than 95% of modern pearl jewelry falls into this category.
- Ennobled. It is not of great value, because it undergoes special processing to increase its value. Pearls are often x-rayed or tinted to achieve the desired color.
- Majorca. This stone is of synthetic origin, but half has a natural composition. It implies the presence of a glass core, which is covered with mother-of-pearl using a special technology. Sold under our own trademark. The cost is not small.
- Imitations made of glass, stone or plastic. They are often used in costume jewelry to make pearl rings, necklaces and other products. A number of well-known brands have their own circle of fans.
Counterfeits include only imitations made of stone, plastic or glass, and sometimes “Mallorca” products, which are passed off as a natural mineral.
How to check authenticity?
There are several methods for determining the origin of stones. All methods are divided into:
- visual;
- mechanical;
- chemical and physical;
- formal.
Visual inspection methods include evaluation of shape, color, general appearance, weight and surface cleanliness:
- A gem of natural origin is characterized by an irregular shape. Typically, pearls are oblong, elongated, elliptical or pear-shaped. Perfectly round beads are very rare and are usually used in pearl earrings or rings. Most often the stones are cultured.
Spherical natural pearls are usually sold at auctions for the price of large diamonds. If the price of spherical pearl beads does not exceed a couple of thousand, it is definitely a fake. - The color range of such stones is varied – from white and pink to purple and blue. The further the shade is from white, the higher the cost of the stone.
- The play of light will help determine the naturalness of pearls: mother-of-pearl reflects the tints of yellow, pink and blue tones. This is explained by the interference of light. A fake does not have the same quality as imitation pearls.
- The surface of a natural mineral is uneven, with roughness and spots of varying intensity of shine. Natural pearls are characterized by heterogeneity of color. It is this sign that allows you to accurately identify a fake: it is completely identical in color.
- If there is a hole in the bead, look at its edges under a magnifying glass. If there is a darker spot, it is a fake. Sometimes scratches in the paint are visible near the hole.
- If pearls are enriched with radioactive radiation, they become black or dark gray in color. This is exactly the method used in the process of making imitation valuable black pearls or cheap river pearls. If sea pearls are irradiated, only the core will change color and will be visible through the nacre.
Refined minerals can be identified by color – it becomes metallic, not characteristic of nature. - Weight of the stone. This method is convenient when checking finished products – beads or bracelets with pearls. Typically, natural minerals are characterized by greater mass, because this mineral is classified as a heavy stone. The more beads on the thread, the heavier the product will be. If you compare a plastic product, it will seem weightless.
Mechanical methods are based on the characteristics of the mineral:
- pearls are classified as a substance characterized by low hardness – no more than 4 Mohs units. It is this property that allows you to test the stone on the tooth: lightly biting the natural mineral will leave a fine powder and squeak on your teeth. This is a quick and proven method for determining the natural origin of a stone. However, such an experiment is only available at home, on an already purchased pearl jewelry;
- Another method is friction. Simply rub the beads against each other. If a small amount of pearl powder appears, the decoration is natural. However, this method will not work with Mallorca, which is already covered with a layer of mother-of-pearl;
- An equally common method is a strength test. It is enough to throw the pearl jewelry onto a hard surface. Pearls of natural origin will be covered with small scratches, which can be easily smoothed out with your fingers. Glass or plastic will not leave visible damage, and lightweight plastic will bounce off the surface like a ball.
Chemical-physical methods make it possible to distinguish a stone from a fake based on the special properties of pearls:
- Low thermal conductivity – the stone heats up slowly. A necklace or earrings made of pearls remain cold even when in contact with human skin. Jewelry made of glass or plastic quickly heats up from body temperature.
- If you know a radiologist, you can agree on the use of x-rays. This method is suitable for examining only one pearl, since after irradiation it may darken. However, the picture reflects the structure of the mineral stone – layering, core, density, etc.
- If a natural mineral is illuminated with an ultraviolet lamp, it will give a blue glow. Imitations of stone give off a green glow or none at all.
- Natural pearls can be placed in a fire for a couple of minutes – nothing will happen to them. In the case of glass, it will crack, and plastic will melt.
- The simplest and most proven method is to use vinegar. It is also recommended to use only one bead, as vinegar may dissolve it. The glass core will remain from the Mallorca, and the plastic and glass imitation will remain unharmed.
Formal methods allow you to be safe from deception. One of these is cost. A mineral of natural origin cannot be cheap. Beads made from pearls of less valuable irregularly shaped stones usually cost a couple of thousand. At the same price they sell a high-quality imitation of the Mallorca brand. Round-shaped cultured pearls cost one and a half thousand dollars, and pear-shaped pearls cost one thousand dollars.
It is best to buy jewelry with pearls in well-known stores that value their reputation. Also, each piece of jewelry must have a quality passport or certificate.
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This article is addressed to those who have doubts about the quality of the purchased pearl jewelry or want to gain important knowledge before purchasing jewelry. We will tell you how to check the authenticity of pearls at home and even in a store.
5 Methods for Testing Pearls
Natural and cultured pearls are considered real; fake pearls are glass or plastic beads coated with a layer of mother-of-pearl.
- We look carefully.
Look at the pearl from different angles. Real mother-of-pearl has a heterogeneous shade, hence the beautiful tints and reflections. It is even easier to see the transitions of mother-of-pearl tones by placing the pearls in a container of clean water.
The shape of the beads will not be perfectly even; minor surface defects are possible. But fake pearls demonstrate the perfection of shape, the same size and color of the beads in the decoration. It is also good to compare jewelry whose authenticity is beyond doubt with those that need to be verified. The differences will be immediately noticeable.
Lightly bite the pearl with your front incisors and gently slide it between your teeth. There should be a feeling of slight roughness. If the bead is absolutely smooth, this is a sign of a fake. Just keep in mind that your teeth must be cleaned and you cannot press too hard on the pearls, as there is a risk of damaging the mother of pearl. Be careful not to swallow the pearl.
- Three and listen.
It will not be possible to check the authenticity of the stone in the ring in this way, because for the experiment you need at least two pearls. But it is quite possible to “control” beads, a bracelet, or make sure that you got high-quality pearls on earrings. If the beads slide easily when rubbed against each other and no pearlescent pollen remains on them, then this is a fake. When rubbed, real pearls create resistance, which produces a quiet rustling sound. A white trace of pearlescent “powder” remains on their surface, which disappears as soon as you run your finger over the bead.
- We feel and compare.
If possible, compare an obvious fake and a supposedly real pearl of the same diameter. The imitation will be smoother and lighter than the real thing. Plus, real pearls are cool.
- We arm ourselves with a microscope or magnifying glass.
A technically enhanced gaze will allow you to examine the structure of mother-of-pearl. Under a magnifying glass, the surface of a real pearl resembles a labyrinth or fish scales, while a fake pearl has a grainy texture.
Using a magnifying device, you can also examine the hole on the bead. Small scratches around it indicate the authenticity of the pearl, and the imitation surface will be perfectly smooth if the bead is new. On an old fake, when the mother-of-pearl has worn away, a plastic or glass base will be visible. Another sign of a real pearl is the line between the core and nacre clearly visible in the hole.
It is important to consider
Imitation production technologies are actively developing, and identifying fake pearls is becoming more and more difficult.
The more methods you use when checking, the more signs of authenticity or imitation you will find.
None of the proposed methods, or even their combined use, provides a 100% guarantee of identifying a counterfeit. If you want to get an accurate result, contact a professional jeweler or gemologist. It is very important to take advice from experts in the world of pearls.
ATTENTION: when checking pearls, be extremely careful – there is a risk of damaging the jewelry.
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