Tips for stone care

What do you need to know when choosing diamonds?

Buying diamonds is not an ordinary event in life. It doesn’t matter if it’s the first stone in a collection, or if there’s a safe filled with jewelry waiting at home. However, in any case, it is always important to remember how to choose the right diamonds so that they delight the owner and heirs for many generations. RR has compiled its own guide to the world of stones Sofia Karagankina When you decide to buy diamonds (whether it’s an investment, an engagement ring, or just a gift for a loved one), you have a lot of difficult decisions to make. After all, the question arises of what clarity of diamond to buy, what cut to prefer. And the numbers and codes on the stone tag can generally confuse you. To make your choice safer and easier, we have compiled a guide on how to choose the right diamond

Where is it better to choose diamonds: salons, boutiques, brands

The first and main secret to choosing the right diamonds is to go to a trusted place. These are, of course, jewelry boutiques and salons. There you can not only inspect the stones in the right environment and in good lighting, but also get answers to questions from employees and specialists. In addition to the consultation, the salon will provide a gemological certificate for the selected stone. It will indicate the weight of the diamond, its clarity, cut shape and parameters. We will talk more about these qualities of the gemstone below. Another undoubted advantage of buying a diamond only in a salon is that if in the future you have any complaints about the stone, you can always contact the boutique with a problem or question. ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE Where else do you buy diamonds? Collectors and investors can pay attention to auction houses that sell record and historical stones, as well as jewelry with them. For example, Christie’s has worldwide fame. It speaks volumes that in 2022 the auction house sold the largest white diamond ever offered at auction. We are talking about a stone weighing more than 228 carats with the name “The Rock”. The price of the stone exceeded 21 million dollars. In addition, at the annual Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction, famous and ultra-expensive jewelry goes under the hammer. However, it has now become more difficult for Russian collectors to use this tool due to Western sanctions on capital, as well as increased attention to the country of origin of the money of buyers of stones and other valuables. ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE

The best Russian brands for buying diamonds

After February 2022, many Western premium brands that sold jewelry left Russia. However, Russian jewelry companies remain on the domestic market, which are not inferior in design and quality to foreign competitors. Here is the RR selection:

MIUZ Diamonds

The Moscow Jewelry Factory (the name MIUZ Diamonds began to be used in 2021) is one of the oldest jewelry enterprises in Russia. Already 100 years ago he created jewelry. And now it offers both jewelry and stones. When certified, the diamond is assigned a unique number – it is placed on the girdle (a band around the perimeter in the widest part of the stone). The company can also make an engraving with any word chosen by the client. ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE
ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE However, the main focus of the brand is jewelry. MIUZ Diamonds now offers jewelry from the Flaming Ice collection, which combines classic round shapes with graphic baguette-cut diamonds. It included bracelets, rings, earrings, and necklaces. Item 1 of 5

Liza Borzaya

The Liza Borzaya brand appeared just eight years ago in 2015. However, the name is associated with grace, originality of design ideas and high-quality execution of jewelry. ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE Look at the Birds of Paradise collar necklace from Liza Borzaya. The shape of the necklace is classic only at first glance. Birds of paradise hide in the interweaving of white gold and properly selected diamonds (their total weight is more than 37 carats!). Press service archives

Maxim Demidov

The Russian brand is imbued with the history and traditions of the Urals, since its founder Maxim Demidov comes from this region, known for many centuries for deposits of rare minerals and precious stones. Today the brand offers both classic diamond jewelry and custom-shaped jewelry. ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE
ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE Look at the “Cat Grace” ring from Maxim Demidov. More than six hundred diamond hairs cover the body of the predator. Choosing such diamond jewelry is an investment not only in stones, but also in art. Press service archives

How to choose the right diamond: characteristics

If we talk about how to choose the right diamond (that is, about purchasing a stone not in jewelry, but separately), you need to know about the accompanying documents, as well as what characteristics you should definitely pay attention to. The first thing you should know about the diamond certificate. ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE This document, which is made for all stones weighing more than 0,29 carats, contains information about the origin of the diamond. The certificate contains information about the manufacturer, name of the product, date of manufacture and parameters of the diamond, type and sample of the setting material (if any), type and quality of cut. Where is this certificate issued? It is provided by the Russian Gemological Laboratory, the Gemological Center of the Moscow State University, and international appraisers (GIA, HRD Antwerp). So before you shell out money for a diamond, be sure to review the information on the certificate. To choose the right diamond, you also need to pay special attention to the physical characteristics of the stone you like. Below we tell you which ones. ADVERTISEMENT – PRODOLJENIE NIJE

What is the carat of a diamond?

  • small diamonds (up to 0,29 carats);
  • medium diamonds (0,3 carats);
  • large diamonds (from 0,7 carats).

However, there may not be a direct relationship between the price of a diamond and its weight. The cost of a stone is greatly influenced by other characteristics – for example, color, clarity, cut. Read below about these features and nuances of choosing the right diamonds. Let’s start with the types of diamond cuts.

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What types of diamond cuts are there?

Cutting a stone is the moment when a diamond turns into a diamond. Not only the shape of the stone, but also its brightness, shine and beauty depends on the quality of polishing. Cutting can both highlight the beauty of a diamond and hide its flaws and defects. The quality of the cut is graded by letters from A to G, where A is the highest quality, B is good quality, C is average quality, D is low quality. A stone can have many facets (this depends on the type of cut). But through trial and error, jewelers determined that a diamond must have at least 57 facets.

To choose the right diamond that will shine in your jewelry, you need to choose the right cut of the stone. The photo shows the most popular forms.

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In addition, there are different forms of diamond cuts, which differ in the final shape of the stone’s outline:

  • round (classical cut, invented 100 years ago by Marcel Tolkowsky);
  • oval (appeared in 1968; its author is considered to be Lazar Kaplan, owner of Lazar Kaplan International);
  • baguette (step cut with a rectangular outline);
  • heart (ancient cut; first found in correspondence between Duke Galeazzo Maria Sforza and diplomat Nicodemo Tranquedini in the 15th century. A century later, Mary Stuart gave a heart-cut diamond ring to Queen Elizabeth I);
  • marquise (a stone of this cut shape resembles a seed. The cut got its name for a reason: the first “marquise” was made for King Louis XIV of France, who ordered jewelry in honor of the smile of his favorite Marquise de Pompadour);
  • princess (a square cut that was invented in the 1960s);
  • pear (historical cut, the shape of which is clear from the name; the “pear” stone was first found in 1458. It was created by the Belgian jeweler Lodewijk (Louis) van Berkwem);
  • cushion (cut with four rounded corners and convex sides);
  • trillion (shaped like a triangle);
  • radiant (a square or rectangular diamond);
  • emerald (stones of this cut have a rectangular shape, truncated corners and stepped edges).

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What colors of diamonds are there?

To choose the right diamond, it is important to pay attention not only to the cut, but also to the natural color of the stone. Sometimes, at the largest auctions in the world, it is not the largest stones that are put up for auction. However, the uniqueness of their color inflates the price to millions and millions of dollars. So what colors do diamonds come in?

There is an international color scale GIA (Gemological Institute Of America). In it, stones are divided into groups according to increasing color intensity. First, completely colorless diamonds and then stones with more saturated shades. Each group is designated by a letter of the Latin alphabet: from D (colorless diamonds) to Z (light yellow stones with a brown tint). Each letter corresponds to a spectrum of colors. In Russia, to evaluate the color of diamonds, they use their own GOST scale, inherited from the USSR. But it uses numbers to indicate colors.

The value of a diamond depends on its size (weight), color, clarity and quality of cut. Each of these parameters is assessed by specialists in quantitative terms, the total expression of which determines the value of the stone. The price list sets the price of a diamond depending on the quantitative quality characteristics. The objectivity of the assessment is achieved by the fact that it is carried out in accordance with the rules for determining each of the listed characteristics that are agreed upon and generally accepted in international practice. Prices set in this way are not constant over time. They fluctuate depending on market conditions.

In Yakutia, where diamonds are mined, in winter the temperature reaches minus 55 degrees. Dronova N.D. came to evaluate a batch of rough diamonds.

What is diamond clarity?

Internal defects have a particularly significant impact on the degree of purity. The quality of a diamond depends on the number, nature and location of defects in it. According to the degree of natural defects, diamonds can be divided into the following groups depending on the weight of the diamond:

  • the first is diamonds that do not have any defects;
  • the second is diamonds that have no more than one defect in the form of an insignificant point located not under the platform;
  • third – diamonds that have no more than two defects in any part in the form of light, subtle or insignificant dots and stripes located not under the platform;
  • fourth – diamonds having no more than three defects in the form of minor dots, stripes, light clouds in any zone or one minor crack in the girdle zone;
  • fifth – diamonds with no more than five defects, including no more than three small cracks or three small clouds or five stripes, microseams, bubbles and dots;
  • sixth – diamonds with no more than seven defects, including no more than three cracks or three clouds or seven stripes, microseams, bubbles and dots;
  • seventh – diamonds that have more than seven defects, including defects in the form of one significant crack, one large cloud or large dark inclusion reflected on the facets of the top of the diamond and faintly visible to the naked eye;
  • eighth – diamonds with large defects located in any zone and visible to the naked eye (these diamonds must retain their play in individual parts).

Which diamond can be considered flawless?

If, when examining a stone through a magnifying glass with tenfold magnification, no inclusions are found in the diamond, such a stone is considered defect-free.

What is a diamond abbreviation? How can a buyer decipher a tag on a piece of jewelry?

An abbreviated characteristic that determines the quality of a diamond is expressed in a code. For example, a round diamond, seventeen-sided, weighing 0,01 carats, of the second color group, of the second defective group will have a code of 1 Br. Kr-17-0,01,2/2. A diamond, on the label of which the numbers 2/2 are written, is colorless (that is, it does not have undesirable shades) and there are no foreign inclusions or cracks in it. A diamond with this characteristic is very high quality.

What is a black diamond?

Large black diamonds of gem quality are very rare. A black diamond has the same structure, shape and properties as perfectly pure diamonds. But unlike a transparent diamond, a black diamond transmits light only partially or not at all. This is explained by the presence in it of numerous black inclusions (graphite, hematite, etc.), formed during crystallization and absorbing almost all the light.

The most important requirement for the quality of a black diamond is that the inclusions are distributed so evenly that it is completely opaque even under strong lighting. A high-quality diamond and, accordingly, a diamond made from it sparkles and sparkles, while a low-quality diamond appears matte and dull. Today, famous jewelry houses use black diamonds in their collections, and therefore these stones gradually became fashionable, acquired a new shine and, accordingly, a new price.

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