What is more expensive: white or black pearls?

Pearl is an organic compound. The same as, for example, corals. It consists of calcite and aragonite and is a waste product of mollusks. Interestingly, there are more than 6000 species of mollusks, but only a few produce pearls. A pearl is formed when irritants get inside a mollusk along with water: a small stone, algae, and so that they do not interfere, it begins to envelop them in nacre, which initially serves as the building material of the shell. For a long time, only natural pearls existed in nature. It was divided into marine and freshwater. The latter, in particular, was very abundant in our northern rivers. Thanks to this, in the 17th century, Russia even became the world leader in pearl suppliers. But over time, the water became dirtier, and mollusks began to die en masse, so Russian river pearls became a thing of the past. Sea pearls were mined by divers who could dive to enormous depths. Most of them did not live to be 30 years old, and fishing was banned in the XNUMXth century. Today there are almost no such natural pearls left. The river one can only be found in vintage stores, the sea and ocean one, which was pulled from the bottom, is an extremely rare and almost criminal phenomenon, it costs fabulous money.

Cultured pearls

The lion’s share of modern pearls are cultured, artificially grown pearls. The first experiments of this kind were carried out in ancient times: Buddhist monks placed miniature figurines of Buddha in shells to obtain the so-called Mother of Pearl Buddhas, which were considered sacred. At the beginning of the 20th century, the Japanese, Mr. Mikimoto, founder of the jewelry brand of the same name. He set out to grow the perfect pearl, which took almost 20 years, but he achieved his goal. This happened in the 1910s, which is now commonly called the era of the pearl revolution (read more about Mikimoto in our other material). Nowadays, pearls are grown on an industrial scale. Thousands of farms, mainly in China, work on this. Pearl cultivation is an imitation of a natural phenomenon: a core is placed in a shell, around which nacre grows. In 2008, China carried out a second pearl revolution by learning to grow pearls without a nucleus: instead of a ball, the mollusk is injected with a chemical mixture. All cultured pearls are considered real, natural and natural. Along with it, there are many fakes and semi-counterfeits. The latter, in particular, include pearls carved from giant sea shells and covered with a layer of crushed mother-of-pearl (the so-called Shell Pearl). Often, pieces of real pearls are glued onto an artificial base or repeatedly dipped into a paste of crushed mother-of-pearl (the so-called “Mallorca” pearls). Counterfeits include glass and plastic. When you hold them in your hands, they are lighter and warmer than real pearls.

Pricing pearls: color, shape and luster

The main properties of pearls for which they are so valued by jewelers are their shape and shine. They also determine its price. The rounder the pearl and the more shiny it is, the more expensive the pearl will be. Size and color also affect the cost. Accordingly, the more, the more expensive. The most common color of pearls is white, the rarest (and most expensive) colors are black and gold. Color can be changed artificially; a lot of means are used for this: from chemical compounds to radioactive treatment (to, for example, get black pearls). But in this case, a conscientious seller is obliged to indicate on the product tag that the color has changed. All modern pearls are grown on farms, but farms can be located in different bodies of water, so they are divided into freshwater, sea and ocean. Each has its own advantages: the first, due to calm water and less shaking, has a better shape, the second, due to the properties of the water, is the most brilliant, the third, due to the “scale” of the water area, is the largest. But modern science has reached such heights that scientists have learned to isolate and cross the genes of all three varieties so that the perfect pearl is born!

Akoya

Everyone has encountered this pearl. It is often used in classic necklaces, because these pearls have a suitable spherical shape and snow-white color. White and cream are the most common colors of akoya. These pearls belong to the sea, as a result of which they have a bright shine. This is why jewelers value it. Akoya comes from the mollusks of the same name, which are found mainly off the coast of Japan. It was with these pearls that the pearl revolution began, because the first pearl that Mr. Mikimoto, was just this type. Nowadays there are also many akoya farms in China and Vietnam, but in terms of quality, Japanese raw materials leave their competitors far behind. These pearls are usually small (due to the “dimensions” of the mollusk itself). Their size varies from 2 to 10 millimeters in diameter. The thickness of the layer is determined by how long the pearl has grown. As a rule, it is given three years to reach medium size (6-8 mm). This cannot be determined by eye, but an x-ray will show the number of rings, which, as in the case of wood, determine the age of the pearl. Akoya is not easy to grow, many mollusks die, others fail, so good pearls are a certain rarity and are valued accordingly.

South Sea Pearl

This definition can often be found on the label of jewelry. Initially, this was the name given to pearls grown in the Philippines (the first successful seeding was done there back in 1917). Today, pearls are grown in both Australia and Indonesia. The farms are located in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, hence the collective name. These pearls are produced by large mollusks, so the pearls are quite large: on average 10-13 millimeters. Larger sizes are rare, which means they are many times more expensive. These pearls come in a variety of colors, but the golden ones are the most prized. “Premium class” also includes snow-white pearls and samples with a silvery tint. These are a common pearl; they are often used as jewelry inserts and on their own. Collecting the perfect string of beads is not easy; finding the right pearls can take several years. By the way, it is worth knowing that the size of pearls in a string is always indicated by the central bead, while any necklace is selected with a gradient: the closer to the clasp, the smaller the pearls (evenly on both sides). Typically, size changes occur in increments of 0,5 mm.

Tahitian pearls

This is also a collective definition that hides farms located in the waters of French Polynesia (Pacific Ocean). They often equate Tahitian and black pearls. Indeed, most pearls turn black or have a characteristic tint. However, the range of Tahitian pearls is not limited to black. There are also various shades of gray and green. And due to the warming of the climate and the waters of the world’s oceans, even blue and. cherry Tahitian pearls are now found. Iridescent chameleon pearls look exceptionally beautiful, playing with different shades of color, enhanced by a glossy shine. Tahitian pearls are born from large shells and are quite large: on average 11-13 mm. The mother-of-pearl layer takes a long time to grow, thanks to which these pearls have a beautiful, deep color and bright shine. Traditionally, the most valuable are spherical pearls, but they are extremely rare. More common are shapes that approach a circle and teardrop-shaped pearls.

Kasumi

There was almost a detective story with this pearl. This is exactly the ideal one, created by crossing genes (and qualities) of freshwater, sea and ocean. Research in this area began in the 1990s in Japan, at Lake Kasumi, but the Chinese government bought several specialists to conduct experiments at home. The result of this work was the appearance of kasumi pearls, but the angry Japanese still managed to defend their rights. Therefore, authentic Kasumi pearls come only from Kasumi lake farms. Sellers should mark other pearls as Kasumi-like, which, of course, is not always done. Kasumi pearls are distinguished by their excellent size (up to 2 centimeters), close to an oval shape, but, as a rule, not without roughness, and a bright, iridescent shine. Because of this, kasumi is also called rainbow pearls. Many pearls have an almost neon effect!

Keshi

These pearls can be called a by-product. Not every pearl seeding is successful. It happens that the shell rejects the embedded core, but the process of nacre formation has already started, and a kind of nacre drops begin to form. The resulting pearls are small, like grains, hence its name: “keshi” is translated from Japanese as “poppy seed”. However, it is valued by jewelers for its interesting shape and snow-white color. Keshi resembles flower petals and, unlike other types of pearls, appears almost flat. These are inexpensive yet stunning pearls that are often used in a variety of jewelry, including costume jewelry.

Blister

Another “marriage”: a blister is a pearl that has grown to the shell of the shell. It is cut out together with the mother-of-pearl coating of the sash and used as a solid insert. For a long time, such non-standard was not valued at all, however, nowadays, when everything natural and as irregular as possible is in fashion, blister has even begun to be grown. See also

Sir Elton John Collection: Glamor and Rock ‘n’ Roll

This conglomerate of pearl and valve can be of any color. By the way, they learned to “program” the color of pearls by feeding the pearl with suitable organic matter. Blisters are often used in pendants and fashionable mono earrings, because no two inserts are identical.

Baroque pearls

The beauty of this pearl cannot be overestimated. Baroque pearls are irregularly shaped pearls. The more interesting the shape, the more valued the sample is. There are no two identical pearls, because each one will be slightly different. The most valuable specimens resemble recognizable objects, animals, and natural phenomena. There are pearls that look like swans or clouds. In the 19th century, heart-shaped pearls were especially valued. These pearls have been used since ancient times to create unique jewelry. The jeweler played with its shape, framing it with precious stones, gold and enamel elements. The peak of interest in Baroque pearls came in the 17th century, when they were used in the decoration of complex, long necklaces, earrings (including men’s) and massive brooches. Today it is still popular and in demand in jewelry.

Melo

According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), chalk is considered a pearl. However, these are pearls. without nacre, and they are produced not by mollusks, but by snails. Chalk sea snails live off the coast of Indochina (Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar) and sometimes reach very large sizes, which is why pearls are quite large, more than 20 millimeters in diameter. Instead of mother-of-pearl, they are formed by the solidified secretions of the snail’s glands, and they have a characteristic yellowish tint (the mollusk itself is called a melon shell in Asia because of its color). The chalk palette includes shades of yellow, orange and brown. The most expensive are large orange pearls with the effect of flashes on the surface, which is obtained due to the fact that the mass hardens unevenly. Chalk pearls are rare and extremely expensive. It is not cultivated, and examples of beautiful shape and color are generally rare, so jewelry with it costs incredible amounts of money. Pearls are often simply purchased for a collection as a special curiosity, without planning to use them as jewelry inserts.

conch

Another “like a pearl.” Conch is also born not from mollusks, but from deep-sea sea snails in the Caribbean and is a product of their secretion. These are long-lived snails, they “mature” only at the age of seven, but live for several dozen. The older the snail, the more pearls it can produce. Such specimens are a genuine find; they appear on the market extremely rarely. Conch, like chalk, is prized for its color and texture. The matte surface of the pearl resembles silk, and inside it it is as if a fire is breaking out: the most beautiful samples can be compared to fireworks. Conca colors are primarily concentrated in the red spectrum, with beautiful, delicate shades of pink being most prized. The ideal shape of a pearl is close to an oval or drop. Conch is the rarest of all types of pearls, because only one out of ten thousand shells produces a good pearl, and one out of several tens of thousands produces a unique pearl. Pricing is structured accordingly.

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Weekly digest about jewelry art. Pearls are among the most valuable precious stones. For 6000 years they have served people as decoration. Since they do not require any treatment, they show in their natural form the full shine required by lustrine. If you decide to buy pearls, then don’t be lazy and go shopping, compare different types, sizes and quality characteristics, learn to spot the differences. Compare the quality of what is offered in stores. The main criteria for the quality of pearls are: luster, thickness and quality of the nacre layer (top layer), color, smoothness of the pearl surface, shape and size. The main factor that determines the quality of pearls is the thickness and quality of the nacre, which affects the durability of the pearl. So, the thickness of the nacre determines the durability of the pearl, and the quality of the nacre determines its light reflectivity. The bright shine and iridescence are provided by a high quality mother-of-pearl layer, so pearls with these qualities are covered with a thick layer of mother-of-pearl. When determining the quality of mother-of-pearl, pay attention to the uniformity of shine that reflects light, the presence of cracks and chips, as well as the thickness of the mother-of-pearl near the drilled hole (the layer of mother-of-pearl is thinner). The shine should be intense. The pearl should seem to glow from within, and not just shimmer like artificial pearls. The brightness of a pearl’s luster is determined by the light that is reflected by the numerous layers of nacre. In high quality pearls, there is a sharp contrast between the brightest area where the light hits and the shaded area, creating the illusion of a ball inside the pearl. Before purchasing, be sure to inspect the pearls under a fluorescent light and roll them in your palms to check for even luster. Pearls are best viewed on light gray or white material – never on black! – because these colors reveal the true quality of the pearl. The color of the pearls is no less important. Try the pearls on yourself (put them on your neck or face) and make sure that their color is in harmony with the color of your skin and hair. Ask if the color is natural – this is especially true for colored pearls (gray, blue, black, etc.). Naturally colored pearls often cost much more than white pearls, while dyed pearls cost much less. The rarest and most beautiful white pearls have a pink tint. Cream-colored (ivory) pearls are less expensive because they are more common. The price of pearls depends to a large extent on the intensity of the color. So, pearls of darker shades will cost more than the same pearls, but a little lighter. You can find colored pearls in natural shades like white, black, grey, gold, blue, pink and green, but it will take some effort. Be sure to inspect the pearls for defects. Although the characteristics of pearls are best seen against a light background, it is recommended to check for defects against a dark background, under intense and diffuse lighting. Perfect pearls are extremely rare, and minor imperfections can be tolerated if other characteristics (such as luster and nacre thickness) are excellent. Pearls with a bright shine are better able to hide surface defects. The shape of the pearl is also important. There are three main shapes of pearls: symmetrical, spherical and baroque. Spherical pearls are the least common and therefore the most sought after. Symmetrical pearls are both slightly oblong pearls and pear-shaped pearls, which are somewhat cheaper than their spherical counterparts. Baroque pearls have an irregular shape, which is why they are the cheapest. The size of a pearl is no less important than its shape. Large cultured pearls are rare and therefore more expensive. Akoya pearls reach 7 millimeters in diameter and are expensive. The price of pearls begins to rise rapidly with every millimeter if their diameter exceeds 8 millimeters. In stores, ask for pearl sizes and compare the differences in price for pearls of the same quality but different sizes. A double strand of smaller pearls can look equally beautiful and cost less than a single strand of larger pearls. Another important factor in choosing jewelry with pearls is the selection and consistency of the quality and size of the pearls in the string. When purchasing pearls, it is very important to take into account all the factors listed above. Graduated pearls also require careful selection. The combination of pearls affects the price of the jewelry – poorly chosen pearls do not look very attractive and reduce the impression. Also make sure that all the pearls on the string are drilled in the center and lie flat. Otherwise, the decoration will look sloppy, which will also negatively affect its price. You should also weigh the various quality variables against each other: gloss is good, but roundness may not be important; roundness is good, but shine is weak; shine and color are normal, but the surface is not clean; The shape is good, but there is no harmony among the pearls in the string. You can learn a lot about the quality of pearls through simple observation. How to distinguish artificial pearls from real ones

• Drop the pearl from a height of 30-50 cm onto a smooth hard surface. Natural pearls, due to their high-density structure, will bounce around the surface like a ping-pong ball, while artificial pearls will hardly bounce at all.
• make a hole in a sheet of completely opaque material with a slightly smaller diameter than the pearl being examined. Having placed the pearl to the hole, bring the sheet to a strong light source (100 W lamp) so that the pearl is between this source and the observer. You can distinguish a relatively thin luminous layer (up to 2 mm) of nacre and the dark core of the seed of a cultured pearl
• if you place a pearl in a strong electromagnetic field, the natural one will remain motionless, while the cultured one will turn and take a certain position (orientation along the field lines)
• It is believed that in ultraviolet rays, cultured pearls fluoresce green, and natural pearls fluoresce blue
• looking through a 10x magnifying glass into the hole in the pearl (if there is one), you can see the section between the core and the surface layer in the form of a thin dark strip – this is a cultured pearl
• Chips are often visible around the hole in cultured pearls (they are softer than natural pearls)

• using X-rays: in a correctly taken photograph, a cultured pearl usually shows a dividing strip between the core and the grown layer (in core-free cultured pearls, cavities in the center are visible)
• using radiography: in a cultured pearl, a dividing strip is usually visible between the core and the grown layer (in non-nucleated cultured pearls, cavities are visible in the center)
• immersion method: pearls are placed in a liquid with a density of 2,7 – real pearls do not sink
• microscope: cultured and real pearls have a scaly surface, imitations do not.