Myths and legends

Which diamond shape is considered the most expensive?

Since the round shape has essentially become the cutting industry standard, over 90% of the diamonds on the market are of this cut shape. The round cut is distinguished from all other forms primarily by the standard ornamentation of edges and proportions, the approach to assessing the quality of processing, and its higher cost. On the other hand, the famous Antwerp diamond cutter Gabi Tolkowsky, who has cut many diamonds in his life, believes that it is more correct to call the round shape fancy. The fact is that diamonds in nature are found in different shapes, but those sections of diamond crystals that determine the shape of the future diamond can be square, rectangular, with beveled corners, and triangular, but never round. It is known that when cutting a round diamond, more than half of the mass of the original diamond is usually ground into irrevocable losses; losses when cutting fancy shapes are less. The appeal of fancy diamond cuts is based primarily on the attractiveness of their shape. In some cases, the name of a particular cut sounds more attractive, for example, “princess”. The standard round diamond cut is the most thoughtful in terms of optical properties, i.e. sparkles, scintillations, games, which is why fancy cuts typically cost less (in dollars per carat) than rounds. This is also because when cutting fancy shapes, flattened or elongated diamonds are used, and the yield is greater than when making round diamonds from the same crystal. If you cut diamonds into different shapes, but at the same time maintain the same weight for them, then some will be visually larger than round, for example, marquise or trilliant, others will be smaller, for example, princess. This can be judged by knowing the overall height of the stone and comparing it with the height of a round diamond. Diamonds that have an elongation, such as oval, pear, marquise, can exhibit an optical “bow tie” effect in the form of darkening in the central part of the stone, oriented across the elongation. This effect is considered undesirable in trade and leads to a decrease in the value of the stone. There are most recognized length to width ratios, which are different for different shapes. For example, for a marquise it is 2:1, for an emerald it is 1,5:1 (a variety of emerald without elongation is usually called Asscher), for a princess it is 1:1, but personal preferences may differ from these proportions, so the stones can be longer , and in short. It is necessary to pay attention that if one or another fancy form involves a change in the thickness of the girdle along the perimeter of the stone, then in the thickest part the girdle should not appear extremely thick, and in the thinnest part – extremely thin.
Round diamond
Of all the cut shapes, round diamonds are the most popular, perhaps due to their strong “play” and greater return of white light to the observer than other cuts. When creating a round cut, the yield from a diamond is significantly less than in the case of other cuts. This, along with the high popularity of round diamonds, are two main reasons for the relatively high cost of these stones.
The round cut sets the standard for other shapes and accounts for over 75% of all diamonds sold to date. This 57 (58)-sided shape consists of a crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (bottom). To achieve maximum play in a round diamond, certain proportions must be strictly maintained. Common fantasy forms. Fancy cut diamond shapes can be divided into two groups: wedge, in proportions close to a round diamond (marquise, pear, oval, heart, princess, radiant, etc.) and stepped (emerald, baguette, etc.). The step cut is composed of tiers (steps). Fancy wedge cut diamonds: marquise, pear, oval can sometimes have a “bow tie” effect. Its appearance is associated with deviations in the proportions of the cut and symmetry of the stone. This effect negatively affects the appearance of the diamond, as a large dark highlight (spot) in the shape of a “bow tie” appears on the surface. Marquis
Marquise is a boat-shaped wedge cut. Awnings are often chosen by women who have an independent style. This elongated shape creates the effect of long and narrow fingers.
The cut dates back to the time of the Sun King, Louis XIV. The king, who wanted to marry the Marquise de Pompadour, ordered the creation of a diamond similar to the Marquise’s smile. The cut looks impressive in solitaires, as well as surrounded by small diamonds.
Marquise cut parameters Pear
Pear is a drop-shaped wedge cut. These attractive diamonds are often used in pendants and earrings. Many of the largest stones ever found were cut into pears. Both large and small diamonds are cut in the shape of a pear. A large single pear-shaped diamond set in a ring visually lengthens the fingers.
Pear cut parameters Oval
Oval is a wedge cut with an oval outline. More often, this form is used for cutting large diamonds for setting in rings, earrings and pendants. A large single oval-shaped diamond set in a ring visually lengthens the fingers.
Oval cut parameters A princess
Princess – wedge cut square or rectangular with sharp corners. The cut has a very good game and a high degree of brilliantness.
This relatively new cut with many sparkling facets is often used as single pieces in rings, earrings and pendants. Often the princess in rings is accompanied by trilliants on both sides. To increase the play of the stone, it is necessary to significantly increase the depth of the pavilion to 70-78%.
While most square and rectangular cuts cannot match the sparkle of a round diamond, the Princess was specifically designed to approximate the sparkle of a round diamond.
When purchasing a princess cut diamond piece, you need to ensure that the setting protects the four corners of the stone that are most susceptible to chipping.
Princess Cut Options Emerald
Emerald is a stepped rectangular cut with truncated corners and an octagonal outline.
A diamond cut with emerald can be absolutely magnificent. This cut has less play, but wider and brighter flashes of light. Refined and elegant, this shape is often used to set rings.
Due to the “open” nature of the cut, cracks, low color and low cut quality become noticeable even to the naked eye, so when purchasing an emerald-shaped diamond, it is extremely important to pay attention to the quality of the stone. The emerald cut diamond cut is not as traditional as the round cut and not as fashionable as the princess cut, which makes the price of emerald cut diamonds not as high (compared to other cuts).
In recent years, square emerald cut diamonds have become more popular.
Emerald cut parameters Usher
The Asscher cut is a type of emerald cut that has a square shape and more tiers. The usher allows the wearer to look elegant and majestic. This Art Deco cut style combines old-fashioned charm with modern cutting technology to create a dazzling diamond.
Ashers with equal length and width are preferred. This ratio should not exceed 1.1:1. Radiant
This is a square or rectangular wedge cut with an octagonal outline. Radiant combines the elegance of emerald with brilliant and the play of a round brilliant. To achieve greater play of the stone, it is necessary to increase the depth of the pavilion during cutting, which in turn entails an increase in the weight of the stone. The radiant cut is more often used for cutting single large stones. The radiant form can enhance the color of fancy colored diamonds.
Radiant cut parameters Heart
Heart is a wedge cut shape with an outline in the shape of a heart, the main symbol of love. It is essentially a pear-shaped diamond, split from the head side (see Cutting Elements). When purchasing such a diamond, you should pay attention to the evenness and clarity of the outlining line, since the beauty of this cut, like no other, directly depends on the skill of the cutter.
Hearts are usually equal in length and width.
Heart cut parameters Trillion/triangle/trilliant This is a wedge cut with a triangular shape. Trillions are also often called trillians and triangles. These are the same diamond cut shapes, fundamentally different from others in their triangular shape, while the number and shape of the faces can vary.
Trillion spectacular wedge cut. First developed in Amsterdam, cut designs can vary depending on the natural characteristics of the diamond and the personal preferences of the cutter. It can be either a traditional triangular shape with sharp corners or a more rounded shape. Trillions are often used as side inserts in large stone rings.
In triangles, close lengths and widths are preferred. Variations in their values ​​should not be significant.
Trilliant cut parameters Baguette Baguette is a step cut with a rectangular outline. The ratio of length to width for baguettes can be 1:1, in this case the cut shape is called “square”. In addition to rectangular baguettes, there are trapezoidal ones, i.e. in the shape of a trapezoid. In Russia, rectangular baguettes have a ratio of 1,4:1 or more. Since the baguette has fewer facets than most other forms of cutting, this form is used for cutting small diamonds; such stones can be side stones, framing a central, larger one in a piece of jewelry, or lined up in a single line, for example, in bracelets.
Just like in the emerald cut, in the baguette cut, due to the “openness” of the cracks, low color and low cut quality become noticeable even to the naked eye, so when buying a baguette diamond, it is extremely important to pay attention to the quality of the stone.
Rectangular baguette cutting parameters
Trapezoidal baguette cutting parameters Examples of less common diamond cuts. From left to right: cushion, flanders (top), alfalfa, anniversary (bottom).

Natural diamond itself is of little interest to ordinary people. The stone in its original form will only be appreciated by gemologists and collectors who specialize specifically in rough diamonds. In order for the crystal to sparkle like a rainbow and become a coveted acquisition, the stone must be cut.

What is a diamond cut

Natural stone is difficult to insert into a frame; it will not shimmer beautifully in the light. In order to give gems the desired shape and reveal the depth of their color, transparency, and ability to reflect incident light, they are subjected to special mechanical processing and cutting.

The most expensive cut

In first place in terms of cost is the “Heart” cut. Here, not only the mass of stone lost during processing is taken into account, but also the complexity of the work. The classic round cut will cost a little less. Here only 60% of the original mass of the stone will remain, but the result is a magnificent product that “burns” when light hits the edge.

Cutting stages

  • Using X-rays, the sample is examined for cracks. Takes 3-4 hours. Based on the results, a cut will be made. It will take 1–6 hours to cut a 8 carat stone. Nowadays, a diamond saw with a rotation speed of 9000 revolutions or a laser is used for these purposes.
  • The first stage of rough processing is carried out on a special lathe. The diamond is roughed to give it the desired shape and edges.
  • Afterwards grinding occurs. For this, iron grinding wheels with diamond powder are used. Sanding – 3–4 hours.
  • Once finished, the diamond is polished for 1-2 hours and bathed in sulfuric acid to remove all traces of impact.

After all the manipulations, the diamond acquires aesthetic value and can be used in the manufacture of mass-produced or exclusive jewelry.

Types of diamond cut

Today there are 30 diamond cutting options. Of these, 3 are basic, and the rest are considered mixed type.

  • Brilliant cut – developed in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky. The main component is mathematically verified 57 edges. This amount is necessary to make the stone reflect and refract light rays as efficiently as possible.
  • Step cut. This treatment produces less shine, but reveals the purity, shade of the stone, and transparency to the fullest. An example of a step cut is “emerald” and “baguette”. Characteristic feature: square or rectangular, less often trapezoidal shape, the arrangement of the edges is strictly parallel.
  • Mixed cut. The most striking representative of this treatment is the “princess”. The stone combines brilliant shine and will demonstrate the beauty of the shade and transparency.

All types of non-classical cuts are usually called fancy – these are stones with a complex shape that invariably attract attention to the owner.

Round

This type of diamond cut is the most popular, although it is considered very wasteful – to give the stone a round shape, you will have to sacrifice approximately 40% of the original weight. A wedge-shaped diamond cut allows you to achieve maximum light refractive power – the stone will shine the brightest.

For large and medium stones, 57 faces are made: 24 of which are the pavilion, and 33 are the upper part, or crown. Compared to other shapes, the circle option allows you to level out existing defects, which makes the stone attractive to the buyer.

Oval

The Wittelsbach Blue Diamond is an example of historically significant gemstones that is closest in cut to the modern version. In the early 1960s, Lazar Kaplan introduced a pattern of diamond-cut oval stones that is still in use today. A wedge cut is used to give the stone an oval shape. It is used for both large and small gems. On large stones, 57 facets are performed. Small diamonds shimmer with 17 facets.

A princess

The author of “The Princess” is considered to be Apard Nadem. This type of cut is based on the “Profile” cutting technique, which was previously popular in Israel. In its final version, “Princess” appeared in 1979. This is still statistically the second most popular diamond processing method.

“Princess” allows you to save up to 80% of the natural source material during processing. Having a square shape, the cut is only slightly inferior in brightness to the classic round shape. The characteristic features of the “Princess” are sharp edges, right angles, and 59 facets that are almost identical to the classic diamond cut. May also have 49, 65 or 68 edges. When viewed from the side, the stone looks like an inverted pyramid.

“Princess” is a popular option for men’s jewelry – beautiful shine is combined with strict geometry. At the same time, it is important to remember the vulnerability of the corners of the stone; the frame must properly protect them.

Heart

Heart-shaped diamonds can be seen on canvases with portraits of monarchs, but in their modern form, with embedded facets, cutting appeared only in the 57th century. The “heart” has 58 or XNUMX facets. It was only in its second half that diamonds began to take the shape of a heart on a mass scale. The highest indicator of cut quality is the perfect symmetry of the stone.

This processing method greatly reduces the strength of the stone. To maintain the maximum possible strength during cutting, the proportions of the length and width of the diamond must be maintained in a 1:1 ratio. The Heart type of diamond cut is said to be a modified “Beardrop” with a split base. The plan is oval or rounded rectangle with high or very high shoulders.

Pear

The teardrop type of gemstone cut is also called a teardrop, or “pear cut”, or briolette. In the plane of the girdle, the shape of the fruit of the same name is clearly visible. This is one of the oldest forms of gemstone design; in a modern interpretation, it contains 56 facets.

The pioneering use of this type of diamond cut goes to Ludwik van Berkem, a Flemish cutter from Bruges, who was the first to cut a gemstone in this way in 1476. Most often, products with such a cut can be seen on canvases of the XNUMXth century. It is believed that this is not the most economical way to process diamonds, however, it is one of the most advantageous shapes for diamonds and topazes. The drop allows the rays to be reflected inside the stone from all sides with approximately the same intensity.

Drop cutting is used for both large and small stones, which makes it possible to use diamonds both in necklaces, earrings and pendants, and in clusters – in brooches and rings. It is important that the sharp end is covered with metal parts of the jewelry, as it is very vulnerable to chipping.

Emerald cut diamond

Since the 65th century it has been used for colored stones; it has been used directly for diamonds since the 1912th century. The cut acquired its classic appearance with XNUMX facets at the beginning of the XNUMXth century. The greatest popularity of the emerald cut diamond came from products of the Cartier company, whose designers have been using such stones in Art Deco collections since XNUMX.

“Emerald cut” or “Emerald” cut: this method of step cutting allows you to preserve up to 70% of the original mass and reveals the transparency of the diamond. 56 facets make the gem “burn” brightly in the rays of light. In the plane of the girdle, it has the shape of a rectangle with truncated corners and is used primarily for large stones.

Usher

The popularity of diamond shapes peaked in the 1920s, when Art Deco became fashionable in the jewelry industry. Including the culet, the diamond had 50 and 58 facets. This processing method was considered ideal for conveying the purity and color of a diamond and was used for gems with the highest transparency. This step type of cut appeared in 1902 and is named after Joseph Asscher, a Dutch cutter. The shape of the stone is close to an octagon and has 49, 57 or 75 facets. Unlike “emerald”, the edges of the chamfers are wider; when examined, their pattern looks like a diagonal cross. Older cut options have a culet edge. The second wave of popularity of ushers began in the mid-1980s, but now the number of edges has been increased to 75.

Couchon

For its ability to play with reflections of its facets in the light of candles, the cushion is called a “candle diamond.” In horizontal section it can be either square or rectangular. This cut option is popular not only for its beauty, but also for its practicality: “cushion” is an opportunity to preserve the original weight of the diamond as much as possible. The characteristic rounded top and rounded corners give the diamond a cushion shape while contributing to its high reflective properties.

The Tiffany diamond was cut precisely according to the cushion type. This cut is characterized by 72 facets.

Radiant

Most often used for fancy diamonds. The Radiant Mixed Cut allows for maximum display of the stone’s color without detracting from its brilliance. Due to its strict form, it is most often preferred by men. This is a modified version of the French Emerald square cut. The Radiant cut options, standardized in the Russian Federation, have from 65 to 89 facets. Typically, in jewelry practice, 61-77 facets can be used, with 8 per girdle.

Moreover, the first has a square in horizontal section with truncated corners, the second and third options are elongated octagons.

Marquis

The Marquise cut shape, according to legend, embodies the shape of the lips of the royal favorite, the Marquise de Pompadour. There is also another name that has taken root in Britain, where it is called “Shuttle” or Navette. The cut is based on an ellipse, pointed on opposite sides; the number of faces is 55. The proportions of the length to width ratio can vary.

  • Reference option 1,70:1,80;
  • The classic proportions of the Marquise diamond are 1,75:2,15.

A narrow stone is often endowed with a “bow tie” effect – an area is formed that weakly refracts light, as a result it appears darker. With this type of cut, it is very important to maintain perfect symmetry. “Marquise” is characterized by a prong setting with a V-shaped type of legs. It allows you to protect the sharp ends of the stone from chipping, but significantly limits the variability of designs. The stone is used in engagement rings and pendants. The cut is considered feminine, suitable for bold and eccentric ladies.

Baguette

Used for cutting small diamonds when it is necessary to preserve the weight of the stone as much as possible. Most often it is meant to give the diamond a rectangular shape; square and trapezoid are used much less frequently. “Baguettes” most often complement larger stones. Compared to other options, the Baguette step cut gives the stone a minimum number of facets, while the laconic design perfectly demonstrates the transparency of small stones. The optimal aspect ratio for a rectangular “Baguette” shape is 1,4:1.

rose flower

The Rose cut type has been known since the 24th century. 3 triangular facets give the stone dome a resemblance to a flower bud. In the simplest version there were only XNUMX faces. Any shape of stone is allowed, but the classic is round. “Rose” does not have a pavilion; the back side of the stone is a flat area.

The most popular cut is the “Rose” cut in products with a vintage design; the weight of the stone must be at least 2 carats. It is believed that today only one diamond in 1000 receives this cut.

With this cut, the entire stone is visible, without protruding beyond the edges of the frame. The absence of a pavilion does not allow the stone to strongly refract light; its radiance is soft and muted. Roses sparkle best in candlelight. Also, this type of cut requires high quality of the original diamond, since the small number of facets does not allow possible defects to be hidden from view.

A competent choice of shape will emphasize the natural advantages of a particular stone. Modern technologies make it possible to make the process of diamond formation more precise, minimizing weight loss. The beautiful cut shape makes the stone a particularly valuable acquisition for a collection or as a gift.

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